bear canyon to bear peak

Description: What a smorgasbord of a hike! A veritable pull-your-chair-up-to-the-buffet-and-try-it-all hike that will leave you feeling like you’ve experienced every kind of terrain and trail possible in Boulder’s Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP). And you won’t easily forget it either. Because it’s a whopper. If you are considering this hike, please, please make sure you read the information on the exposure and descent on this hike in the challenge section below. Seriously, I don’t want anyone negatively surprised by this hike. All good? Good!

Bear Peak is one of the most prominent features of the front range area in Boulder. Certainly, the first is the Flatirons, those huge triangular slabs that jut dramatically up from Chautauqua Park. Bear Peak sits just behind and to the south of the Flatirons, showing off its 8,461’ pointy dome as the highest point you can see from downtown Boulder. Actually, South Boulder Peak is taller at 8,549’ but is hidden from downtown by Bear Peak. Sneaky little bear!

Bear Peak is separated from Green Mountain and the Flatirons to the north by Bear Canyon, an east-west passage that eases the assault of Bear Peak, but also makes it much longer. Bear Canyon extends all the way to the foot of the prairie grasslands near NCAR’s Mesa Laboratory, acting as a ramp to the base of west Bear Peak for the first 3.6 miles of our hike, and bridges our route from the grasslands into the montane forest. Once out of the canyon the approach to Bear is made from the west, rising through the remains of the Bear Mountain fire that threatened the southern part of Boulder with evacuation in June, 2012.

The peak itself offers the best views available of Boulder and the prairie to the east as well as the Continental Divide and Rocky Mountain National Park to the west and north. Some will prefer not to climb the last 50’ or so of Bear that gives it its pointy shape as it is a steep rock face with lots of exposure. If you do, take care. The return to Bear Canyon is via Fern Canyon trail, a rocky and extremely steep descent down the east face of Bear, requiring lots of concentration, scrambling and some ‘butt creeping’ for a safe traverse. But, once back in the canyon it’s smooth sailing down to the trailhead and off to perhaps a great Boulder brewery (see Après Hike below.)

Challenge Level: Very Difficult, 8.2 Miles, 2,800' Total Elevation Gain, 4-6 Hours.  There are three approaches to Bear Peak.  For brevity's sake we'll call them: "Short and Mean" - Fern Canyon; "Long and Mean" - Bear Canyon to Bear West Ridge (this hike); and just plain "Mean" - Shadow Canyon (also offered as a hike on Beyond Boulder here).  And long and mean, but very beautiful, this hike is with a 5.3 mile ascent via Bear Canyon, and then an incredibly steep descent from the peak of 1,900’ over just the first mile via Fern Canyon. This is a long hike, and depending on the time of year the weather can be completely different on top.  It seems every time I hike up Bear or S. Boulder Peak the weather surprises me with some rain and cold wind. The August day of this trip was no different with hot sun in the canyon, but by the time I hit the peak the wind was up, the temperature down, and it started to rain.  Be sure and take lots of hydration, food, and stop often to rest as needed.  

CAUTION!!! There are two significant challenges that everyone should be aware of on this hike. The first is the final assault of Bear Peak through the 2012 burn area. The last .7 miles gains 750’ of elevation with absolutely no shade. The first time I hiked this route it was a hot July day and this section turned me around as I hadn’t planned with enough water and the temps were in the 90’s. It turned a 8.3 mile trip into a 10 mile trip having to backtrack through the entirety of Bear Canyon. The second is the descent on Fern Canyon down the east face of Bear, dropping 1,900’ in one mile. It is VERY steep and easy to get over your skis if not careful. Not a lot of exposure, just lots of great opportunity for a fall on sharp rocks. So, please take lots of water, consider hiking this trail on a cooler day or early in the morning, and do not rush your return on Fern Canyon.

Driving Directions: 1499 Bear Mountain Dr, Boulder, CO 80305.  Ten minutes from downtown Boulder.  Take Broadway (CO 93) south from Canyon Rd toward Golden. At about 2.5 miles turn right at the traffic light onto Table Mesa Dr. heading west toward the NCAR facility.  Turn left after .7 miles onto Lehigh St., and take an immediate right past Bear Creek Park onto Bear Mountain Dr. The trailhead and parallel parking will be on your right about .4 miles up the road.

Parking and Trailhead: Bear Mountain Trailhead. There are plenty of parallel parkings spaces on either side of Bear Mountain Rd. near the trailhead. As with any of the trailheads, parking can be a challenge on nice weekends.

Alternate Driving and Parking Option, NCAR Laboratory: You can also choose to park in the large parking lot of NCAR Labs, which is at the end of Table Mesa Rd. I have hiked several times from there, and while it can save a few feet of elevation gain, I found the trailheads starting from there overly crowded, and somewhat confusing, with a lot of up and down sections just to get to the intersection of Bear Canyon and Mesa trails. However, it can come in handy on weekends when parking is at a premium. If starting from NCAR, follow the NCAR Trail west, from behind the laboratory, past the blue water tower, to the Mesa Trail. Turn left on Mesa and it will quickly join Bear Canyon.

Trail Guide (from Bear Mountain Trailhead): Cross Bear Creek just beyond the trailhead and turn left up the broad boulevard that is Bear Canyon trail, offering great views of Bear Peak above, giving a hint of the 2,800’ of elevation you will gain. Bear Canyon will merge with Mesa Trail, at about the one mile mark and together they cross back over Bear creek and climb up to the base of Bear Mountain. At the 1.4 mile mark you will take the split to the right where the trail surface becomes orangish-brown, disappearing into Bear Canyon. The path through the canyon alternates between smooth dirt and rocky mires, switchbacking between creekside shade and open canyon walls for about two miles.

As you emerge from the canyon on the west side of Bear you will come to the split of Bear Peak West Ridge and Green Bear trails. Stay left on Bear Peak West Ridge and shortly cross Bear Creek once again. From here on out you are officially climbing Bear Mountain. While the trail smoothes out and begins to rise gradually you are definitely starting the toughest part of the hike. About 1.2 miles beyond the creek crossing you will come upon an incredible sight: nature and its amazing ability to regenerate itself. In June of 2012 a fire sparked on the west side of Bear and roared up the mountain onto the saddle between Bear and S. Boulder mountains, threatening the area of Boulder at the trailhead with evacuation. Our Broadway home faced Bear and for several stressful days we sat on our front patio watching forest service planes drop tons of fire retardant on the saddle and peaks. Although only a few years ago, nature is already well on its way to recovering the area and if you are lucky enough to make this hike in early summer the wildflowers are stunning.

The final half mile of the climb is the steepest yet, but offers many rocks for sitting and resting to catch your breath. Just before the summit you will join up with the trail coming up from Shadow Canyon and S. Boulder Peak, another great hike in Boulder. Turn left and you will shortly have some great views of Boulder before you. Behind you there should also be some great views of the Continental Divide. Carefully climb the 50’ of rock outcropping to Bear Peak if you wish and relax. You made it!

When well rested and ready to return look for the OSMP sign indicating the way to Fern Canyon. It won’t be hard to know when you are on Fern Canyon because you will swear you are going straight down! Be very careful for the next mile or more, as a trip and fall could have serious consequences. After a mile of steep descent you will pass the split of Shanahan Trail as you continue down Fern Canyon which will eventually end at the Mesa Trail. Turn left on Mesa and make your way back to where it joins with Bear Canyon Trail, continuing back down the wide boulevard to the trailhead.

Map Resources: Boulder Open Space Map

Après Hike: The best part about finishing this hike is thinking about how you need to replenish all those burned calories! And there’s no better place in Boulder for brick oven pizza and craft beer than Under The Sun, just down the road from the trailhead at Broadway and Table Mesa*. Part of the Mountain Sun chain of brew houses, UTS offers an eclectic selection of exceptional upscale grub including pizzas, burgers, pasta, salads, and other tempting menu items, along with a great selection of Mountain Sun brew. And here’s a secret. Shhhh! Although you won't find it on any menus or website, you can sit down at Southern Sun and ask for a 'Kripler'. Now I know what you are thinking, "I can't get crippled, I gotta hike!" Well, a Kripler gets its name from the fact that it is 50% Coloroda Kind Ale (ABV 6.3%) and 50% Triple-X Pale Ale (ABV 5.6%). 'Kind' + 'Triple' = Kripler! Heaven! Under The Sun is located at 627 A South Broadway Street, Boulder, CO 80305

* As of 8/7/2021, in the year of our continued Coronavirus pandemic, Under The Sun is open 3-9 pm Tuesday-Sunday.

Picnicking: No designated areas.

Restrooms:  No.

Dog Friendly: Dogs are allowed, but this hike could easily overheat your pet and injure their paws. Might be best to leave Rover home for this one.

Cell Service: Good coverage in most places.